Tuesday 21st February

| BY Jack Moss

Christopher Kane: Ready-to-wear AW17

Important fashion-based news: the crocs are back. For a second season. Which basically now declares that crocs have, officially, thanks to Christopher Kane, been fully rehabilitated. Go. Run. Purchase. Or, alternatively wait for today’s pair – they’re furry. I mean, it is Austumn Winter, and noone wants cold appendages. Quite obsessed with the shoes in general, which we’re finding a little difficult to describe. Heel, yes, but they had – for want of a better description – spongey coloured panels that sat beneath the straps. A bit like the coloured ones you wash dishes with. Which was fitting, because this was about girls that work. Specifically girls on the factory floor. To which we struggle to find a reference, because all we can think of is Fantine from Les Mis (didn’t she work in a factory before becoming destitute?) but it really wasn’t like that at all. Maybe more Made In Dagenham. They made car seat covers, but imagine here, as the press release tells us, that they are making fabrics and wearing them too. Which meant it began with these sharply-cut origami dresses, draped on the body, made made in an amazing country house curtain-like jacquard and fastened with technical strips of velcro. “We wanted to work with these touch silhouettes, heavy silk damasks and taffetas together with overalls and velcro attachments… the extreme industrial line combined with history and femininity,” said Mr Kane. And there were plenty of feminine touches here – coloured pleated skirts that just fell on the calf, or sheer ones with stitch detailing. And, of course that full silver two-set with shiny sequinned sleeves. And sequins found their way on to those very last looks too – where fluid, layered dresses were embellished with sold and silver sequin panels and shiny flowers across the chest. As if the ladies were in bloom. Or, as the notes more elegantly put it “industry, utility, technology and history: the Christopher Kane girl blossoms on the factory floor.” Work!

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans