Friday 15th February

| BY Claudia Croft

Christopher Kane: Ready-To-Wear AW19

A Looner is someone who is sexually aroused by balloons. There are dedicated websites and online communities places where long necks are prized and you’re either a popper or a non-popper. Christopher Kane shone a light on the Looners and their specialist attraction to inflatables with his AW19 collection which was dedicated to sexual kinks including rubber and liquids. At a time when mainstream brands are running scared of sexiness, Kane is celebrating human sexuality in all its complicated, kinky glory.

There were full rubber coats, bubbling liquid prints on flounce hemmed dresses, and studs scattered over boots and tailoring. Is there a name for people with a special attraction to crystals? Kane used them liberally to outline collars, hems and pockets and to create fetish harnesses on eveningwear. He nailed every category – great knits (oversized Arans, with plastic peep holes) great coats (ostentatious binbag quilting or satin and flounce hemmed). The rubberised lace evening pieces and cut away gowns were stand out. He has always had a subversive streak and this collection, with its mix of great clothes and talking point pieces, felt more Kane than ever.

Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.