Thursday 23rd February

| BY Jack Moss

Emporio Armani: Ready-to-wear AW17

Can we just start by saying that we’re all for the heavy use of clear PVC we’ve seen this season. We’re very much up for showing off the goods, as it were, and what better to do so than with a completely transparent fabric? The clothing equivalent of a lucite heel. Not that Mr Armani himself probably had such thoughts when he fashioned the fabric into a clear tuxedo at his Emporio Armani AW17 show today, a tuxedo complete with silky lapels and pockets, or that pair of trousers, clear save a checkered print. Which reminded me a bit of those tablecloths you buy off the rolls outside of of a cornershop. Well, if said tablecloth was actually a highly luxurious fabric and had been fashioned by the hands of Mr Armani into something close to genius. Which thus means definitely not available anywhere within the vicinity of Dalston High Street. The running theme of the collection was contrast. Yes, clear and opaque, as mentioned, but throughout there was this clash of fabrications – a houndstooth jacket was completed crocodile-like leather lapels, a gilet came in panels of varying textures of faux fur, or those layers of lace worn over patterned silk. But there were many more contrasts besides. Patterns, for one – florals, illustrations, checks, dots – all jiggled up together. Or those varying volumes – nipped in dresses and tailoring met massive puffas, or for the men, classic velvet blazers were worn with roomy trousers. Which meant that it was clothing for all occasions. Masculine meets feminine, day meets night, gym meets bed, uptown meets downtown. Pieces that could be mixed and matched, over and over. And isn’t that what Mr Armani is so good at? Clothes for living, clothes to fill your wardrobe. What more simple concept that?

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans