Friday 23rd February

| BY Alison Veness

Erika Cavallini: Ready-to-Wear AW18

God she’s good. Erika Cavallini gives all woman. She knows what we want, a serious take on slouchy, three parts sensual and some parts gamine. As we all know, she worked with Martin Margiela way back in the ‘90s and this irreverence and odd mash up runs like an inescapable undercurrent. Yet she is lighter, there is hope in here. To the sounds of the soulful and poignant Down By the Water by our favourite tortured blues artist P.J Harvey the girls confidently strode out. The casting was as diverse as last season, crossing generations and cultural divides. We like this. Many were sculptors, musicians, and artists. Our kind of people.

The collection was called “Rules of Understated”- so what are these rules? No.1 Layer loose, No. 2 Layer loose on repeat. Pants cut right across the bust, belted, made us reminisce about those long gone days when we wore ours with Cashmere turtle necks. There was a uniformity, a tailored boiler suit and a super nineties shout-out came with the lingerie slip worn hanging over slouch pant suits. Shirts were tucked into sheer tights worn above the waistline as trousers sat at the hip. This was a recurring theme throughout, that thick-banded stocking seam that hugs the waist which we have been conditioned to conceal became a feature. She meant it. P.J Harvey’s voice echoed, “I lost my heart/ Under the bridge/ To that little girl/ So much to me/ And now I’m old/ And now I holler/ She’ll never know/ Just what I found/ That blue eyed girl” Cranking it up now. Poetry in motion.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans