Sunday 20th September

| BY Claudia Croft

Fashion East: Ready-to-Wear SS21

Nothing symbolises the energy, diversity and creativity of London more than Fashion East. In the time of Covid, a film replaced the much-anticipated fashion show with each of the four designers producing an individual short, but Fashion East’s designers still signalled the way forward.

Take Nensi Dojaka. It’s significant that Bella Hadid chose to wear Dojaka’s tailored trousers and lingerie-mesh cami for her first post-Covid public appearance at the VMAs. After months of lockdown, Hadid must have been craving a jolt of sensual sophistication. Dojaka excels at that. Her complex, lingerie constructions thrill with delicate tension.

Cult Korean designer, Goom Heo showed off genderless sportswear inspired by the German surrealist painter Paul Wunderlich in a film that married fish-eye, high-kicking weirdness with a TikTok craze.

Maximilian Davis’ dancing models showed off a collection that explored the roots of carnival with tailored and bodycon pieces that were spliced, sliced and layered to seduce and provoke. Saul Nash also designs clothes to move in. His models danced near a cliff edge, taking turns to lift each other up. As a metaphor for how London’s creative fashion community has responded to the pandemic, you couldn’t get much better.

fashioneast.co.uk