Friday 21st February

| BY Claudia Croft

Fendi: Ready-to-wear AW20

It was hard and soft, feminine but powerful. The Fendi show, now designed by Silvia Venturini (after Karl Lagerfeld’s 54 year tenure) played with dualities at every level, from materials (mohair was brushed to look like mink) to sexual politics. The familiar tropes of feminine dressing: pink, lingerie, boudoir satin, were re-cast through a feminist eye, by a female designer who comes from a family of strong, pioneering women.

If anyone knows about female power it’s Ms Fendi. Executive coats were pleated at the waist to mimic corsetry, boudoir satins quilted into fierce curving forties-style silhouettes. There were some memorable leather moments including a particularly covetable jumpsuit and a strict trench modelled by Bella Hadid. Fendi has also used upcycled mink and collaborated with Chaos (co-founded by longtime Fendi stylist Charlotte Stockdale on tech accessories.

It was all shown in a cast of beauties of diverse age, size and experience. Seasoned supers like Carolyn Murphy, Karen Elson and Jacquetta Wheele walked alongside Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve as well as the gorgeous Hadids. It felt fresh, strong and very seductive. The new era at Fendi is shaping up beautifully.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.