Friday 23rd September

| BY Jack Moss

Giorgio Armani: Ready-to-wear SS17

Mr Armani’s ladies are women with a purpose. And so they moved with ease. “Charmani” was the title of the Giorgio Armani SS17 collection. Like a great power couple, Charm and Armani. And so we sat in the Armani theatre mesmerised by the quiet adrenaline filled atmosphere, that pre-Giorgio Armani anticipation, that ‘something’ that we are about to witness, a designer in his twilight. So much wisdom.  And he delivered pure GA fashion philosophy – veiling and unveiling parts of the body, that seductive sensuality that Mr. Armani does so well. Mediterranean blue and bruised purples flowed, intertwining in delicate veils and sheer jersey. A sense of deconstruction in jackets and jacquard knits and leather fused into delicately embroidered evening pieces. Sequins and crystals, these Armani women glittered. Evening gowns for legends, he just does it so well. “My purpose in fashion is to offer a less severe, less rigid allure to the male figure, and a less mannered style to the female figure – all the while preserving elegance and distinction and the idea that others should notice you for your mind and your self-esteem,” he explained in his book – Giorgio Armani, released last year. These women were intellectuals and we knew it. They walked the walk. Each a unique powerhouse, mysterious, leaving us wanting more, as he always does. A graceful almost indecipherable wildness that no one nails quite like this. Sensual femininity, in control. Feminism 2016. No one can stop a woman in Giorgio Armani.

Photograph by Jason Lloyd-Evans