Friday 3rd March

| BY Jack Moss

Haider Ackermann: Ready-to-wear AW17

Somewhat distracted here by the sight of Nicki Minaj’s left breast, which was very much out, and wearing, for modesty’s sake, a tiny metal hat. A look possibly best reserved for after 6pm, but who are we to judge? And maybe Nicki had it right, actually. Because was there not something vaguely sexy about Haider Ackermann this season? Not in any fleshy sense (in fact, there was very little of that to be seen outside of the front row), but more in this lean, sleek silhouette that clung to to body. And is there not always something sexy about a woman in a suit? Here, tailoring ran throughout – pitched at the shoulders and cinched at the waist,’it was almost severe, arriving in a symphony of black (though note must go to that one electric blue look), some embellished with strings of golden thread. A woman in leather is also oft-considered sexy – and there was plenty of that too, clinging biker pants, gloves, an oversized puffa. Or Exit 30, in which her entire body, save her neck and face, was covered in the stuff. Marabou is another with vaguely sexual connotations. Here, it made up these giant trousers, in white and black, or sleeves of a jacket, which in movement were light, they floated. The collection was completed with these amazing drapes – twists of fabric that crept up and around the model’s bodies in this extraordinary way. It was yet another display of Haider’s mastery – and, as usual, we were left wanting only more.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans