Tuesday 4th July

| BY Jack Moss

Iris Van Herpen: Couture AW17

There’s never a dull moment with Iris is there? Let’s start with the basics: this collection was called Aeriform, which has something to do with air and water that we don’t entirely understand. We’ll take her word for it. On the catwalk there were tanks. Tanks filled with water, and in that water, a submerged person. That submerged person was playing an instrument. All very David Blaine. Iris said she chose the Danish artists, Beyond Music, because she was fascinated by the way they created noise in a space where there was no air.

We’re not usually lost for words, but it really was quite breathtaking. Clothes themselves were typically fascinated with the intersection of fashion, sculpture and technology – here looking at that through the filter of air and water – rippling patterns, sheer layering and these “biomorphic” gowns made from delicate, feather-light metal, mapping the surface of the model’s bodies. Iris spoke of the whole thing coming from first listening to Beyond Music’s work, saying: “it motivated me to dive into the contrasts between water and air, between outside and inside, between lightness and darkness.” Clothing for the futuristic fashion fiend. He’s to the next ten years.