Saturday 25th February

| BY Jack Moss

Jil Sander: Ready-to-wear AW17

Jil Sander’s girls are getting their glitz on. They don’t let their hair down often (call them disciplined) so take this as an occasion. Because the show ended with a glitzy metallic moment (we’re sniffing a bit of a trend here, Bottega’s ladies earlier were similarly molten) coming through in wide-shouldered drapey lurex and lame dresses, some that wrapped around the waist like tied sleeves. Can’t help but reference Quality Street here – something about a coloured metallic situation always summons up a strawberry cream. Elsewhere, there was that play on tailoring that Rodolfo has made a bit of a signature, big and boxy – here in red wool and black leather, that shape becoming softer, more rounded as the show went along – the sleeves on dresses and blazers curved, the silhouette pumped up with puffa jackets that sat on top. It ended with a bit of a fashion whisper – would this would be Rodolfo Paglialunga’s final collection for Jil? If (and we emphasise “if” here) this is the case – then how better to make your exit than with a bit of sparkle?

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans