Jil Sander: Ready-to-Wear AW18
They called the collection A Human Future and with all the softness, airiness, lightness and poetry in these pieces, it touched our cold hearts. This was the finest comfort dressing. Were the models carrying space blankets? Or pillows? Duvets… wrapping against the chill of the world as it is right now? We had queued in the gridlock of the anti fascist protests to get here. Luke and Lucie Meier are quite literally pumping new air into Jil Sander. The giant glowing balloon outside with the house name emblazoned on it, kind of gave that game away. We were happy to take a deep breath, exhale and enjoy their kind of incredible lightness of translucent clouds of nylon knits. Pale pastel wallpaper prints.
Monotone padded leathers magically added weightless volume, layered, cocooned, and velvets blurred around the edges. Bolts of blue, shots of red. House coats. White knitted socks and leggings were a nod to the late nineties. Backstage after the show Luke said “analog… space travel and how we used to think about it as the future… yes 2001”… and that there is “too much technology”. Yes. Perhaps it had been a long day, or it was the Leonard Cohen Bird On The Wire but there was a sense of sadness. “Yes a little bit of emotion… but we wanted it to feel more romantic than sad, we like to touch people, hopefully not in a bad way but something positive.” It was a fashion pause. Take a long hard look, in the softest possible way.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans