Tuesday 21st February

| BY Jack Moss

Joseph: Ready-to-wear AW17

Little red riding shirt. We’re skipping forward to look 37 here, by the way, because where better to start than the end? Here, a long red shirt was worn with one sleeve on, the other sleeves off, leaving it trailing over the shoulder. Which might suggest a bit of a shirt moment at Joseph’s AW17 show. Which was true. There were lots here. But this was more about a specific part of a shirt, that being the collar. It was having its own moment here. As in, it was big. Big and pointy. It’s nice to have a pronounced collar, isn’t it? The bigger the collar, the closer to God, or something. Which yes, doesn’t really work in this context, but the point is: it looked nice. Best use of said collar were splayed out across a glorious PVC mac, or Look 4, where it poked out from beneath a boxy peacoat. Press release says it’s about masculine and feminine cliches – which meant a combination of loose, relaxed tailoring and outerwear (some in that glossy PVC – mmm) with girlish hues of hot pink and typically feminine fabrics – lace overlays, sateen or sheer and embellished with coloured flowers. “Wardrobe as roleplay,” says the release. Call it a masc-femme mix-up.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Ev/