Thursday 14th February

| BY Dino Bonacic

Kiko Kostadinov: Ready-To-Wear AW19

It’s a dark, dark world out there. And with their sophomore collection at Kiko Kostadinov, sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning decided to brighten it up. Continuing from their debut, it’s a unique and powerful colour sensibility that stands out. Not only in the fashion show circuit that oh, so often relies on the eternal power of black, but in an artistic context too. What some might think of as gaudy, the Fannings interpret in a way that makes total sense. Traces of Rothko, Mondrian and Twombly were harmoniously packaged in a womenswear collection that was unique in its scholar-like approach to design.

Portraits of “Bandidas”, rebellious women of Mexico from the beginning of the 20th century, were the starting point in the use of contrasting fabrics – modest versus exuberant, colour versus neutral. Their nomadic silhouettes became futuristic courtesy of tech-y nylons and sporty elements. The shoes, creates in collaboration with Asics, were a riff on the classic cycling shoe – their sleek straps and a slim foot line reflecting the original shoes Bandidas wore back in the day. Shoulder-padded fine knits in colour-blocking stripes were a definite stand-out moment, making for a pretty shoppable piece that will find itself in our virtual cart. Click – bought.

But beyond the catwalk and the graphically clothed bodies walking in the show, “Bandidas” came to life in the shape of Laura and Deanna too. The confidence of these two women who only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year was nothing but admirable. If this was their second collection, we can’t wait to see the third, fourth, fifth… The sky is the limit.

Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.