Sunday 12th February

| BY Jack Moss

Lacoste: Ready-to-wear AW17

Did you know that when René Lacoste’s sporting career drew to a close he joined the aircraft industry? No, us neither, but the press release at this morning’s AW17 show told us so. And, in a coincidence also communicated by said press release, current Lacoste designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s father was a pilot. So it was aeronautics that provided the starting point of this latest offering – not of the bog standard transatlantic sort, but of the space travel sort. Because this was clothing suitable for the moment when we finally leave this godforsaken planet of ours and embrace life on Mother Mars. At the centre of this was the astronaut suit – here reimagined into a sort of retro-tinged boiler suit (for men and women, by the way), cinched at the waist, almost mac-like, and loose in the leg, dotted with flap pockets. We say retro-tinged because this wasn’t so much the future in a literal sci-fi sense (though the planet prints, taken from the artwork Ron Miller, did suggest a universe far far away) but more a combination of looking forward and backwards at the same time – the other main reference point being the 1990s (“the mythical codes of Grunge and 90s streetwear”). So could we call it Kurt Cobain goes to space? The long, mohair cardis were very him, so too the checkered shirts that ran throughout. Ditto those baggy combat trousers, or the long, grungey leather outerwear. But being Lacoste, there was always going to be a bit of a sporty reference too – found here in those colourful panelled velour dresses, held at the waist with laces, or the 1980s pullover anorak shape (and colours) that ran throughout. So let’s call it retro futurism. To infinity and beyond.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans