Thursday 6th July

| BY Jack Moss

Maison Margiela Artisanal: Couture AW17

This was, according to the notes, all about glamour. It’s couture week, seems apt. Though of course, being Galliano, and being Maison Margiela, this was not any typical understanding of the word, no no – and certainly not the dip it in crystal and cinch the waist approach of other couture houses – rather, here the house, at their Artisanal presentation held in Margiela HQ, set forth what they called a “new” glamour, one informed by the past and but ultimately looking au futur. Which meant an exploration, as is fitting, of couture itself – that’s why we are here, after all – but in this case Monsieur Galliano and his Atelier pulled those ideas apart and put them back together again. Because do we even need to mention that deconstruction front and centre? That’s the house’s raison d’etre.

So here, garments were reduced to their core through use of sheer fabrics that exposed the seams beneath, or flashes of marabou feathers that sat hidden inside the lining. The coat was the central piece to all this – tieing up at the waist like a mac, and speaking to this idea of getting ready in haste. Those coats wrapped around the body in ever expanding forms – a nod to the excess of couture but here put forth in a new way. It all felt very “thrown on.” Because if there is one thing a glamorous lady has very little of is time. Places to go, things to spend money on etc etc. Our Margiela lady had so little time, in fact, she appeared to have forgotten to wash the suds out of her hair. Call it a wash and go.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans