Marni: Ready-To-Wear AW19
The worldwide phenomenon of escape rooms has officially taken over the world of Marni. But instead of some scenario where the aliens are taking over the world and it’s up to you and your friends to save the world in the next hour, Francesco Risso took a bit more of a romanticised, slightly erotic take on the adventure game. The Marni escape room is happening inside your brain, where two sides of you need to work together to get out. Sounds neurotic? The collection’s name Neuroerotik says so too. Risso took a darker, more sombre approach to design. But what does that mean in terms of clothes? Black and red, shiny satins and tartan plaids. Chains flying left, right and central. Black lips and greasy hair. The intellectual Marni woman is bringing out the dark side and taking it to the party. There was absolute richness in these clothes – despite the underground codes being on show, the final look was elegant and worthy of that gallery opening she’s going to.
Risso became the creative director of the brand back in 2017, taking over from the much-loved Consuelo Castaglioni who founded the brand back in 1994. Many were doubting this decision. Now, two years and 14 collections later, Risso is just re-confirming he was always supposed to be where he is now. Paying homage to its history, but giving the world another layer with each thought-out show. Risso’s Marni is the manifesto of successfully taking over someoene else’s brand, and growing it in the right direction. It’s an escape room we never wish to escape from.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.