Thursday 26th September

| BY Paul Toner

Mugler: Ready-To-Wear SS20

Yesterday’s Mugler show was an all-star affair. Karen Elson, Kembra Pfahler, Anna Cleveland, Bella Hadid and Debra f***** Shaw all walked the walk at Casey Cadwallader’s third catwalk presentation at the helm of the esteemed house. They say third time’s a charm, and this season marked Cadwallader coming into his own. SS20 reeked with sex and glamour. It was underwear as outerwear: the Mugler way. Negligees in black, navy and mellow yellow drool around the form of the wearer, hugging the body in all the right places. The power suits popularised by Manfred Thierry Mugler himself were no longer whittled firmly at the waist. They were swollen to epic proportions, clad with power shoulders so big they appeared deliciously quixotic.

Cadwallader has expressed his desires of injecting his own signature oeuvre firmly into the DNA of the house. From sturdy leather cycling shorts, to anoraks made from techy fabrics knotted with pull-ties to give the sleeves bulbous volume – Cadwallader is bringing Mugler to the streets. He even gave his menswear some libido: gloves that glide around the torso worn with suit pants that are tapered at the foot; ideal for pairing with 6-inch stilettos. It’s the nerve-pushing sexiness of old Mugler, built for the now.