Monday 17th September

| BY Richard Gray

Nicholas Kirkwood: Ready-to-Wear SS19

Last night’s incredible Nicholas Kirkwood show marks his return to London after seasons of static presentations in Paris. And what a return: for his first ever fashion show, Kirkwood dressed his West London venue with glitchy TV screens, which played ominous messages to the audience sat on tiered seating – a very best of the world’s fashion press. The viral-alike videos, a clever mix of camp faux-QVC shopping segments and 1984-ish voiceovers talked of taste levels. It was as tongue-in-cheek as it was on the money and a political sideswipe at power structures. The shoes were worn by all kinds of cleverly cast models, who stomped past us on an eye-level staging. The actress and activist Rose McGowan looked incredible in a pair of Kirkwood’s latest heels; she also starred in a series of Instagram videos in the run-up to last night’s happening. The new spring styles riffed on tube-like heels, and brilliant stompy boots decorated in hand-painted flowers. A new-shape heel traced in fluoro seemed to borrow from the future and the trainers were splashy and standout. A clever move – it appears trainers are going nowhere at the moment. Best were the silver ankle-sneaker-boots in shiny fabric and bright purple. The zip-front versions in some new tech-y weave fabric looked fresh from the Kirkwood laboratories. Should anybody be in any doubt as to Kirkwood’s authority in the footwear market, look here: last night’s show pressed refresh on a oftentimes stale sector full of same-y “sexy heels” Welcome home, Mr Kirkwood.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.