Monday 4th March

| BY Richard Gray

Noir Kei Ninomiya: Ready-To-Wear AW19

Kei Ninomiya has cemented his place in the Paris schedule as one of the “golden tickets”. His presentations, always considered and beautiful, have that “something else”; they feed the creative brain.
It’s the clothes that do it, of course, but the way the models come presented, too. Ninomiya taps into an experimental energy, the one that fuels the Tokyo hair and makeup scene and works closely with his collaborator-in-chief, the hair and flower artist Makoto Azuma. This man is the talent behind Noir’s elaborate and fascinating floral hair creations. For Kinomiya’s summer ‘19 collection, Azuma created “dandelion heads” – the seeds of dandelion clocks fell away from the models hair as they walked by. And for the autumn ‘19 show, Azuma weaved tumbling roses through long tresses of pink and red hair and long plaits hung down models’ backs. Some girls came with thorns stuck to their faces and the venue was perfumed with roses. Is there a Noir fragrance on the agenda?

The clothes: Ninomaya is a deft hand with fabrics. Using complex sewing techniques, he cuts and shears also shreds fabrics to create flowers and all manner of shapes combing his inspiration from nature – his garden – and geometry. Leather bodices and elaborate motorcycle jackets in the shiniest Ciré were dissected and re-stitched and came punched with silver grometts. A padded skirt in patent leather looked like a Chanel bag. One dress came with a basket weave concoction as the skirt. How did this hold in place? Ninomiya asks “what can’t fabrics do?”, “how can I push my fabrics further?” and then fuses this with romantic notions and his favourite source of inspiration, nature. The video, here, was of an incredible series of fabric roses woven together to create an incredible dress.

The designer’s press office sent an email flash to all, after the show, explaining the show: ‘ROSE (global way)’.

Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.