Wednesday 1st March

| BY Jack Moss

Olivier Theyskens: Ready-to-wear AW17

How better to begin another week filled with fashions than with our favourite fabric? That fabric being leather (for obvious reasons – we’re dirtbags), a fabric which here opened Olivier Theyskens’ AW17 show today in full-length trench form. And faced with such a garment, we were reminded of Trinity from the Matrix. A full-length leather trench always reminds us of the Matrix. Which this did have a touch of (so too those miniature sunnies that appeared later on), though unlike the trench which is donned in the film, this was neither patent, skin-tight, nor paired with leather trousers so form grabbing they may cause some sort of lasting damage. No, this was a more louche outing for the garment, here worn with leather trousers not fitted but wide-cut, flaring slightly towards the hemline. Call this a collection of Theyskens-isms – a sort of strict, nostalgic beauty, like the corset top that sat over a layered tulle skirt, floating silk dresses, some with trains that trailed behind and dashes of Victoriana – brilliant gowns that ruffled towards the hemline. C’est magnifique. Mr Theyskens is a quiet master of fashion. It’s good to have you back.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans