Paco Rabanne: Resort 2017
This, Paco Rabanne’s Resort 2017 collection, was, apparently, inspired by the 1990s. But not in that bubblegum-y, Clueless type of a way, nor the grung-y, haven’t taken a shower since Kurt Cobain died way. No, for Resort 2017, Julien Dossena looked instead to the more obscure reference of Mathieu Kassovitz’s cult Parisian movie, La Haine, a moody affair about disillusioned kids in the city’s suburbs. This means that there’s something sportier to proceedings, echoing the moody sportswear of the film – all-white boiler suits, ruched, sweatpant-style waistbands and drawstring hoodies. But this is Paco Rabanne, and so the house’s original codes remain at play – a sort of Space Age, 1960s, revitalised by Dossena’s very modern vision of womanhood – clean, athletic silhouettes, slivers of stomach, panels of tech-y, silver fabrics. And so, unlike La Haine’s dark look forward into France’s future, for Resort at least, Julien Dossena’s Paco Rabanne instead offers something altogether more optimistic. And is that not, after all, what Resort is all about?