Friday 3rd March

| BY Jack Moss

Rick Owens: Ready-to-wear AW17

Could we say that there was something of the woodland creature to this, Rick Owens’ AW17 collection? Are those headpieces not akin to the ear of say – a fox? A rabbit? And we know that this one isn’t technically a woodland creature, but was that other headpiece, the one with a single sleeve of a sweatshirt hanging from it, not giving elephant’s trunk? Which meant that, to us at least, the collection had a bit of a childlike dress-up feel, that idea of creating something magic with the clothes that you already have. Something helped here by the fact that this collection was, in fact, made up of other bits of clothing – sportswear, mostly – bundled up puffas, sweatshirts and leather jackets twisted up and wrapped around the body to create this incredible full silhouette. Some garments looked almost like duvets, or pillows, squashed on to the body like armour. And, like last season, this excess of fabric gave the collection an almost ceremonial feel. Because what says riches more than a complete mass of fabric? Here though, that idea was cleverly warped by Rick Owens – these were not silks or velvets, but very normal garments in their separate forms, here transformed into something wholly mesmerising. But what else did you expect? Mr Owens is a fashion genius.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans