Roland Mouret: Ready-to-wear AW16
The coven! Roland Mouret’s dark, attitude-laden and bewitching winter collection was kind of a coven of witches – albeit ones practising white magic, the kind that may spirit away a pair of his pointy-point stilettos rather than cast anyone down into the fiery pits of wherever. Witches made us think, natch, of bitches – lucky bitches, the kind of lucky bitches who get to wear Mouret’s supple, sinuous, splinter-slender velvet column dresses inset with panels of guipure lace and dissected with golden zips, like fabulous robes for a cauldron-stirring ceremony. Backstage, the debonair Mr Mouret cited Stevie Nicks and Kate Bush as inspiration, but there wasn’t a single moment of retro in this show. Those musicians were kind of sound sorceresses, which again chimes (no pun) with the women Mouret was imagining wearing the clothes. Witches, after all, are powerful women, assured, seductive. They put a spell on you. Like these looks did.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans