Roland Mouret: Ready-to-Wear AW18
“I’m completely out of control!” Faye Dunaway exclaims in one of our favourite fashion thrillers, The Eyes of Laura Mars. Out of control in lurve. It’s how we felt today watching Roland Mouret Autumn/ Winter 2018 show at the National Theatre. The 1970s classic was the touchstone for this collection. Men watching women who are in control. Oh yeah. And if those women have visions of murders, well, so be it. At least she/ they look fabulous. Yes, these girls were ready for domination, striding in all those dark rich off-coloured jacquards, and belted pale sweet pink corduroy coats, and lushly luxurious wool.
All that volume in Mouret’s hands, who knows a woman’s body so well, still managed to look sexy. An underused word right now. We must remember, as he says, “…we all dress to undress.” All that lingerie style chevron lace throughout the collection and the matching thigh length stockings added that voyeurism that he was talking about. The hint of a garter topping off the lace hose. A light tailoring, sensual body skimming dresses, imbued with a panting subtlety captured this late ‘70s mood cleverly. The Animals’ ‘The House of the Rising Sun,’ rang true, “Oh mother, tell your children not to do what I have done.” Dangerous women. A little insane. So much dark, hyper, wanton glamour. Helmut Newton. Rigorous and focused. A steely strength. You ain’t gonna mess with Laura Mars. Better not mess with the woman in Roland Mouret.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans