Tuesday 5th March

| BY Richard Gray

Sacai: Ready-To-Wear AW19

Incongruous fusion started here: the Japanese brand Sacai is the Tokyo based home of super-cool collaborations and designer Chitose Abe’s clothes fuse Tokyo street with that very special sense of Paris chic – her coats are something else. For autumn, a beautifully executed cut-and-splice of the MA1 jacket with argyle knits. A classic raincoat gets “opened up” and reissued and weaved with a white shirt. More Argyle knits came with zips and fabric on other coats spilled out of some seriously clever seaming. This is complex stuff. But beautiful.

Coats came worn one atop another, some were belted and the coat twisted a bit. It was a kind of new way of belting and “hoiking up” your outerwear. It was part next-level styling meets pattern room expertise. Is this how they do things at Sacai? Layer it, pile it on; get out the shears; re-stitch it, then the pattern room takes it from there? It must be.

The shoes were great: pointy with cut-outs and studs; some had leopard print uppers; others came with fuzzy fur. The retail-hot hiking boots now gone, replaced with a flatter and easier way to walk up the steps at Dover Street Market.