Wednesday 1st March

| BY Jack Moss

Saint Laurent: Ready-to-wear AW17

Was this perhaps inspired by the humble scrunchie? Referring here mostly to the boots, or perhaps we should say BOOTS, as this was the sort of footwear that deserves extra emphasis. They were knee-high, shiny, and sort of, for desperate want of a better word, scrunched down the leg. The sort of boot a lady wore circa 1984. And, as with his debut, this went in that direction – that direction being full-on 1980s glamour girl – ruched leather dresses with massive shoulders, asymmetric cuts, full-on sparkle, hiked up hemlines, plunging necklines. High voltage sexiness. Come through mama. But this wasn’t pure pastiche – Anthony Vaccarello is far cleverer than that, somehow warping that reference point – like that supersized shearling glove that extended all the way up to the shoulder, flared at the cuff, or the sort of pulled-apart negligee tops (and a hint of areola – free the nipple!) or those laser-cut PVC ruffles. Sort of the future, viewed from somewhere in the mid 1980s. Glamazon in space? We have lift off.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans