Wednesday 28th April

| BY Claudia Croft

Saint Laurent: Ready-to-Wear AW21

“It’s the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn’t belong,” said Anthony Vaccarello of his epic, catwalk movie that saw his opulently clad models stride through a strange, icy tundra. Wearing tweedy, gold-buttoned jackets, tiny, fake-fur trimmed skirts, metallic bodysuits with cascades of strasse at their ears and throats, and lethal-looking heels, the Saint Laurent girls made their way through the alien landscape.

“The shapes of the 60s with the colours of the 80s,” said Vaccarello, of his approach and his girls looked like skinny time-travellers, transported from a lavish house party in 1968 to the black sands of an epic extra-terrestrial expanse. The garish colours, and bedazzled jewellery added an exciting twist of bad taste to Saint Laurent’s edgy chic.

The designer – who had also looked at the “Glitzy imperfections” of Peaches’ nineties rock icon wardrobe – talked about taking a more light and playful approach to the clothes. Within it all there were echoes of Saint Laurent moments past – the perfect suiting of Belle du Jour, the golden jacquard and fur-trimmed cuffs of Yves’s opulent couture – but Vaccarello is never literal in his take. A tiny cocoon-shaped, feather-trimmed LBD, worn with white patent, thigh-boots, shows how he is crafting the house’s legacy of transgressive glamour for a 21st-century audience.

Photography courtesy of Saint Laurent.