Tuesday 4th July

| BY Jack Moss

Schiaparelli: Couture AW17

Nice thing about a Haute Couture show is that it’s always a bit of a pick and mix. Yes, the designers cite themes, but there’s always a looseness to them that allows for the inevitable stream of fantasy frocks made to please the lady customers sat front row. Such was the case at Schiaparelli this AM, who presented their latest couture offering in an intimate salon presentation at their headquarters. The notes said that this season, designer Bertrand Guyon was inspired by Schiaparelli’s circle – the women who surrounded her – wives of artists, muses, intellectuals.

Elsa didn’t enjoy women who fit in (90% of women would be content with a grey suit, she said) – so these clothes did the opposite – yards of floating sheer fabrics seemed to defy gravity, in a palette of shocking pink and opalescent hues. They weren’t subtle. Those ultra-feminine creations were counteracted by say, a leather dungaree embroidered with the Schiaparelli lobster, or a completely clear pvc jacket. It spoke of a knack of reinterpreting those Schiaparelli codes – this clash of surrealism and beauty that defined her work. It ended, as all good couture shows should – with tulle, the finale gown an incredible pastel creation, where the tulle on the cape formed a heart that trailed behind her. Aw.

Photographs Jason Lloyd-Evans