Monday 11th September

| BY Jack Moss

Sies Marjan: Ready-to-Wear SS18

There’s been lots of colour in New York already this season, but Sander Lak of Sies Marjan’s the king of it. That’s where his collections start – tiny swatches of colour from which everything else grows. Today, he said backstage that he was thinking about home. It’s why he chose to show in his West 26th Street atelier, speaking afterwards of the idea that there was something satisfying about showing the clothes in the place they were made – the only place they had ever existed.

It meant that the clothes here had a quality as if they’d been laundered, worn in – jumpers crumpled at the midriff, or, more delicately on creased lightweight silks. Foiled patent jackets looked as if they’d been squashed, a cable-knit jumper twisted around the body – which made for something that looked totally effortless, and supremely seductive. And we haven’t even got to the colour yet – master strokes of teal and rich pink, coppery oranges, sweet purples.

After the show, Sander emphasised the fact that he is making clothes not ideas, or art. Which may sound obvious, but it’s not. Instead of getting lost in concepts sand obscure references, Sander creates clothes from a square of colour up – where every swatch of fabric, every stitch and detail is considered. It’s why he’s one of New York’s few bright young stars.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans