This is the sound of the underground. But no, not the Girls Aloud kind – it’s an ode to the debaucheries that happen in the New York City subways, filtered through the high-glam set of Tom Ford’s eyes. A pair of sensible trousers with elasticated waist draped in a hot fuschia? Sure, we could imagine our commute in those. Worn with a moulded chestplate in a co-ord hue of pink? Well, it’s Tom Ford and this is NYFW after all. Fashion’s finest joined by Hollywood’s glitterati all descended onto the defunct platform of the Bowery Street subway station. Only for Ford that could happen – the recently announced chairman of the CFDA and a living fashion legend.
So, what went down under the busy streets of the Big Apple? The mundanity of American sportswear always gets a red-carpet treatment when crafted in the hands and mind of the man that almost self-handedly turned fashion into a sexy direction back in the day. There’s no mistake, the kind of sporty looks Ford is offering won’t be your local Pilates studio gear. There’s strappy bikinis, satin baseball caps and shiny blazers with popped collars. The hard breastplates, which were an ode to both Issey Miyake and Yves Saint Laurent who had already put variations of them on the catwalk, also came in bra shapes, as effortlessly worn by the ultimate Ford girl Marjan Jonkman.
For the boys, a tall order of graphic tailoring. Skinny trousers, cinched waists and funky printed jackets. Whatever your gender, Ford doesn’t excuse slacking in the dressing department. Even if you’re wearing micro nylon workout shorts, you ought to pair them with some see-through black tights and contrasting metallic sandals. Minimalism revisited in a maximalist manner – this is Tom Ford. The new Tom Ford.
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Photographs courtesy of Tom Ford.