Friday 3rd March

| BY Jack Moss

Undercover: Ready-to-wear AW17

Struggling to find words to describe Undercover’s AW17 show other than: breathtaking. But we will at least attempt to elaborate. You know those Christmas decorations that expand outwards into a kind of honeycomb shape? Could alternatively be used in the creation of a Chinese lantern? Well, that same effect was employed here, forming these incredible full skirts and twisted sleeves that seemed to almost breathe in and out, accordion-like, as the models moved. If you are in need of a visual then imagine a cross between a butterfly and a Tudor woman. For ease, let’s say Elizabeth I. And from these ladies we moved on to what you might deem the collection proper, which was also a bit of an Elizabethan situation – ruffles that sat around the neckline, or appeared out of the hems of tailored jackets, which added to this kind of rich, fullness of fabric found throughout – giant puff sleeves, mega-sized knits. Feathers, furry skirts, loads of embellishments. These sort of high priestess origami headpieces. And the grand finale? Artist @iiindiiia gliding out in a giant pink-skirted gown to the sounds of Thom Yorke. We were transfixed. Truly breathtaking fashions.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans