Monday 2nd July

| BY Claudia Croft

Vetements: Ready-to-Wear SS19

To the outskirts of Paris, underneath a concrete flyover where a long table had been set up as if for a wedding feast. But what kind of dystopian nuptials were these? Vetements boy (in sinister balaclava hoodies, camo denim and viciously spiked trainers) met Vetements girl (in vast, cape-like pinstripe jackets worn over dramatically flowing dresses, tartan mini kilts and neon knee socks) and it was love at first sight. A deliciously subversive vein ran through the whole show. Coats which came in country flags and looks which riffed on paramilitary uniforms hinted at a brooding nationalism. But as quickly as the idea was suggested, it was debunked. One T-shirts declaring a love of Georgia, (where the Gvasalia brothers were born), came in the rainbow colours of the gay pride movement. Another T-shirt bearing an apparently jingoistic US Army motif in the front, bore a bedazzled rainbow butterfly on the back. Nothing was quite what it seemed. The show was presented with Vetements signature “F*** You” energy as the unconventional wedding party stomped past on top of the table. The Vetements approach may be about as subtle as a necklace of love-bites but it still packs a punch. If you are looking for street-infused finery that will frighten the horses (and shock your maiden aunt) this is a match made in fashion heaven.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans