Thursday 9th July

| BY Claudia Croft

Rainclouds, Love Hearts and Emojis: Welcome to Viktor & Rolf Couture AW20

Viktor & Rolf considered not doing a couture show. That was before coming up with a concept that reflected our collective pandemic anxiety back at us with humour and humanity. The Victor & Rolf digital Couture presentation had it all: Haute tradition and modernity, emotional honesty and droll commentary, courtesy of the singer Mika. The film followed the format of a traditional haute couture presentation, Mika’s voice-over describing each look as the model twirled in a gilded Parisian salon.

The Change collection, he explained, would reflect “the feelings of sadness and anger familiar to many these days.” Embroidered rain cloud encrustations “reflect the fitting gloom in the air,” whilst a pink vinyl A-line coat decorated with oversized glittering, tubular protrusions “guarantees you will remain in your own safe zone while venturing out into the world.” Horsting and Snoren worked their signature extravagant volumes with their “stunning” finale coat – a wipe-clean, white, floor-length trench, decorated with a halo of hearts. It came with a special message from the designers, via Mika. “We all deserve to be loved, regardless of age, colour, gender, race, religion, or sexuality.” he said. Witty and heartfelt, it was also a reminder that to smile in the face of disaster is an act of defiance.